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Adding Color to Homemade Soap

Posted by Kelly Handmade Soap, Soap Instructions and Ideas 99 Comments
Please Share

So now you’ve made the basic soap recipes and you want to add some color and fun to your soap.  Adding Color to homemade soap is not difficult.  It’s a matter of finding out what to put in.

There are a lot of ideas on the internet that I would not recommend simply because of toxicity…a big thing!

In my mind, why go to all the hard work of making soap if you’re going to ruin the whole batch by adding fragrance oils and dyes.  When you make your own soap, you have a great opportunity to make something nourishing for your family.

I’ve added hints below for adding color to homemade soap, as well as all kinds of wonderful natural colors to try.

For soap making tips see Homemade Soap 101

Adding Color to homemade Soap - natural, healthy, and non-toxic alternatives for adding color to your beautiful soap creationsTo Add:

  • Most can be added by mixing directly into batch at trace
  • by spooning out a bit of soap at trace to mix with color and then swirl in to soap after it is poured into a mold
  • or by mixing and steeping in an oil before use (I will mention if this is the best method below)

Natural Colors

Black

  • Activated Charcoal – adds black to grey or bluish color, depending on concentration.  Some coarse brands add an element of exfoliation as well.  Great for acne.  Get some activated Charcoal Soap Here.

Brown

  • Cinnamon – while cinnamon oil burns the skin, cinnamon powder adds a nice light brown color.  Some people are sensitive to it though.
  • Beet Root Powder – grey to brown color.  It does not keep it’s beautiful pink color.  A lot of colors are changed in coming in contact with lye.
  • Cocoa powder – light to dark brown, depending on concentration
  • Cloves – dark brown
  • Coffee – use instant coffee to produce dark brown specs.  It is exfoliating, but will not smell like coffee.

 

Green

  • Spirulina – This is a blue-green algae used as a supplement by people.  You can buy the capsules and break them open to add to your soap.  It makes a pretty green color.
  • Chlorophyll– also adds a green color.
  • Alfalfa – dried and ground.
  • Burdock Leaf – infuse in oil.
  • Comfrey Leaf – can be infused in oil or added at trace.
  • Dandelion Leaf – Yes, right out of your yard!  Dry, grind to powder and add at trace.

 

Purple

  • Alkanet Powder – Some, including myself, believe alkanet powder to do wonders for acne and other skin issues.  So it’s definitely a good option.  It will make everything from a deep purple to a bluish purple.  It needs to be steeped in oil before adding at trace.
  • Black Walnut Hull – This is good to mix with the entire batch, giving it dark purple specs that are good at exfoliating as well.
  • Red Sandalwood Powder – make a purple red color, depending on the ph level of the soap.
  • Hibiscus Powder 

Yellow

  • Calendula Powder – calendula has a lot of great medicinal purposes, makes a pretty yellow, and can also be added as a flower instead of powder.  The flower will give your soap yellow spots and streaks.
  • Saffron Powder
  • Tumeric
  • Annato – infuse in oil
  • Ginger – muted yellow

Blue

  • Indigo Powder – creates a deep blue.
  • Woad Powder – creates a lighter blue.

Red

  • Moroccan Red Clay – This makes a beautiful orange/red color and also draws out impurities of the skin.
  • Madder Root Powder – add at trace, can be vibrant red or more muted pink depending on how much you add.

Orange

  • Paprika – I like this best infused in oil and then the excess strained out.  Makes a pretty orange color.
  • Annato – infuse in oil
  • Tumeric
  • Fresh Tomato Puree

Adding Color to Homemade Soap - natural, healthy, and non-toxic alternatives for adding color to your beautiful soap creations

As you can see, these colors are vibrant!

Many change when you add them to soap, but make a new beautiful color so double check the chart before you think pretty beet root will make pink or something. 🙂  Arrow root powder is in the picture because this is also a picture I use for making Homemade Eye Shadow and Blush.  Arrow root powder is used in soap making to help enhance a silky feel and slippery texture.

Methods I choose not to use:

Carmine or Cochineal for pink – this dye is considered natural, but has to go through a heavy processing to derive the finished product from the South American insect.

Melted Crayons – crayons are made from “wax” – no they are made from paraffin (the sludge left over from making petroleum), and mystery pigments…not going on our skin!

Mica – mica is often colored with who knows what to make it that pretty bright color.  Unless you know what that mystery colorant is, don’t use it.

 

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99 Comments

99 Comments

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  • apronstringsotherthings
    · Reply

    May 28, 2014 at 9:34 AM

    I make our family’s soaps and have been wanting to add a little color to some to differentiate easier between the different types. Thanks for this post – it’s very helpful.
    visiting from A Little R & R link up this week – have a great day!

  • Coretta
    · Reply

    May 28, 2014 at 1:54 PM

    I had just started trying to look into this.. there is so much information online! Reading about different methods, then cross referencing to find out what the drawbacks and benefits are, discarding one idea and looking for another… my head was spinning! O.o Thank you for posting this list, SO much easier than reading through page after page after page of info! I had already purchased some supplies for infusing oils (pods to put spices into for easier straining) 🙂

    • Simple Life Mom
      · Reply

      Author
      May 28, 2014 at 4:10 PM

      Great! Perfect timing then -You’re right, sifting through all the info out there can take forever! If you have any questions, please ask. If I can’t answer it, someone out there can 🙂

      • Lisa
        · Reply

        September 28, 2018 at 1:28 PM

        I am considering using Spira Lina or turmeric but I’m concerned that the soap itself could stain the bathroom counter? Any comments about the stainable properties after the soap is made.?

        • Kelly
          · Reply

          Author
          October 1, 2018 at 9:48 AM

          Spirulina and turmeric won’t stain at normal levels. If you used cups and cups worth I’m sure it would. I use 1/4 cup per 9 pound batch. That’s 1-1/4 teaspoons per pound of soap. That’s enough to give a beautiful color and never leaves stains. Also, FYI, spirulina and Turmeric fades greatly in soap unless infused in oil first.

          • Tia

            July 22, 2020 at 6:24 AM

            can you elaborate further on the fading of tumeric unless infused in oil first?

          • Kelly

            Author
            July 27, 2020 at 9:51 AM

            If you don’t infuse it first, you will add it to your soap and think you’re getting a bright beautiful orange color. Gorgeous! Then you will come back at the 24 hour mark to remove it from the mold and it will be faded to a very light tan color.

  • Dawn @OhSweetMercy
    · Reply

    June 5, 2014 at 9:05 AM

    Thanks for sharing this! Your post was chosen as one of this week’s favorites on From the Farm 🙂

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      June 5, 2014 at 9:10 AM

      Awesome Dawn, thanks!

  • Best natural antibacterial bar soap
    · Reply

    June 20, 2014 at 2:37 AM

    Thanks for sharing … These colors looks beautiful… these days unnatural ingredients in many commercial skincare products, have become so common… This idea of adding color in soap looks healthy as well.

  • Homemade soap
    · Reply

    July 29, 2014 at 3:47 AM

    Few years ago I started making homemade soap for personal use but now I’m doing it for a living and what you have posted here is an additional knowledge on part to improve my business. Glad you have shared this.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 29, 2014 at 8:25 AM

      That’s wonderful. Good luck in your business ventures 🙂

  • Kelly
    · Reply

    November 22, 2014 at 8:02 PM

    Hi there!! I am new to all of this and just starting out. For the Alkanet Powder, how do you “steep in oil”?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 24, 2014 at 7:30 AM

      Take some of the oil that you would use in your batch of soap (like some of the olive oil) and put the alkanet in it. Stir until combined and let it set for 30min or until you’re ready to make the soap. Then add it with your oils. Some colors do better once there are in oils, while others need to be added at trace…

  • Pam
    · Reply

    November 23, 2014 at 2:53 PM

    Thanks for Sharing…. I have been searching the internet for colors… and so many sites make it confusing! They show that tbey afe pigment colors then when you start reading the infor on the color they are really mica colors. I have finally found some of the pigment colors that I have purchased and look forward to using them.
    Thanks again

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 24, 2014 at 7:28 AM

      Glad to be of help Pam 🙂

  • Kaycie
    · Reply

    December 13, 2014 at 11:51 PM

    I can’t help but wonder if this makes the soap smell like the spices and some of these spices seem like they might burn your skin or something. Is there not enough for this or do people not care about the smell?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      December 14, 2014 at 9:27 AM

      No. I wondered the same thing when I first started making soap. I actually wish it retained some of the scent, but alas it mostly gets killed off on the specification process. Cocoa is the only one I’ve used that does seem to keep a little scent, but towards cocoa butter for a cocoa scent to soaps, lotions, etc.
      As for skin sensitivity, there’s not enough to do so, though you can still reap the benefits of some herbs such as turmeric, cloves, etc. Cinnamon is one that you need to be careful of in essential oil form, but I’ve used a lot of powder in my oats and honey soap and its actually one of my most mild soaps.
      So do not fear, have fun with the colors, and use essential oils for scents.

  • Jason
    · Reply

    March 15, 2015 at 8:40 PM

    Using Indigo, I processed some fiber materials. I have previously used a liquid form but found the power to much more affordable. Woad is very expensive at $26 US dollars an oz.
    The Indigo does have an odd smell, one that is not pleasing, and I just added it to water, let it sit for a day. Do you have a suggestion on how to prep this produce for coloring soap?
    Looking at your palm oil soap photo, made with the charcoal and Spirulina, I wanted to say how nice that looked. I was wondering if you blogged just how you did that? Thanks so much, we just love your site and your work…

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 15, 2015 at 10:37 PM

      Thank you so much.
      For the indigo, I add it like I do my charcoal, by scooping out a few large spoonfuls of soap into a small bowl when it is reaching light trace and mixing it with a whisk. I have also heard people say that they get a prettier blue by letting it steep in their liquid, warm oils. This makes a lot of sense. If it is already reconstituted in water, use this as some of your lye water. As you can see, there are a number of acceptable methods. I’m guessing the oil method would give you the brightest color, but I haven’t tried all of them as of yet.
      For the charcoal and spirulina that I use in my patchouli soap, I scoop out soap at light trace into two bowls (just about a cup each for a 8-9lb batch). Whisk in some charcoal in one, spirulina in the other. After I pour the soap into my mold I swirl in the charcoal and spirulina soap, swirling just a little with a spatula. That’s it. I hope I helped a little. 🙂

  • Helena
    · Reply

    June 15, 2015 at 8:29 AM

    Hi.

    Thanks for posting this. But I was thinking, hat about oxides? Are those not considered natural? Are they bad for the skin?
    Thank you for your help.
    Helena

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      June 15, 2015 at 10:42 AM

      Yes, most oxides can be toxic to the body if they are nano sized (which many companies do for blending into cosmetics smoothly). So definitely look into the product before buying.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 17, 2016 at 7:50 AM

      They are found naturally in the ground. The form we use in sunscreens and as pigments in makeup and soaps are not. They are completely man produced so that there is no contamination from arsenic, lead, etc. That may sound good, but the chemicals they use to process pigments and oxides are extremely unhealthy. So, it’s important to use non-nano so that the particles are large enough that our pores cannot absorb it. You can’t find that unless you are using non-nano zinc oxide. Even then, some people will not use because of its processing.

  • LB
    · Reply

    August 25, 2015 at 10:12 PM

    Hello! I am new to the soap making world and hope to use natural herbs I can grow to add color and depth to my soaps. I tried to grind lavender and basil into a powder using a nice coffee grinder- but found it only gave me very fine pieces of herbs- not smooth or powdery really. Any suggestions for achieving a smooth powder when using natural herbs from my garden in soap coloring/fragrances?
    Thanks! Love your website!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      August 26, 2015 at 12:49 PM

      I’m so glad you found us! 🙂
      Different herbs will grind differently. Basil can grind to a powder easier than lavender. Lavender flowers are beautiful kept whole though. Try a mortar and pestle. I use homemade herbs in infused oils used in the soaps, sprinkled on top while still soft, or mixed in. The small pieces are fine that way. If you want to go for coloring, buying it already in a fine powder may be the best bet if you can’t get the texture you want. Try steeping them in the oil on low heat for a while to infuse the oil.

  • wilma
    · Reply

    December 30, 2015 at 3:39 AM

    thanks for the information..

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 17, 2016 at 7:47 AM

      You’re welcome. Thank you for stopping by.

  • Vei
    · Reply

    March 17, 2016 at 7:21 AM

    Very helpful info, Kelly, thanks! I love making soaps and have been using only natural herbs and infusions for colouring and essential oils. I share the same thoughts about everything you’ve written here I like very much your recipes for sunscreen, thank you!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 17, 2016 at 7:46 AM

      Thank you so much! That’s why I write!

  • Narelle
    · Reply

    September 26, 2016 at 7:41 AM

    Have you ever used oregano in soap. I live in the south of Italy and it grows wild on our ground and is never treated with any chemical.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      September 26, 2016 at 8:20 AM

      I have not used dried oregano. I’m sure the leaves would end up being brown specks. Quite possibly if you could grind it to a fine powder it may add a uniform color, but I think it will be similar to basil in that it won’t survive saponification and will turn brown.

  • Lynn
    · Reply

    November 14, 2016 at 3:52 PM

    I completely agree! Adding fragrances and dyes ruins the benefits of making your own soap. It drives me crazy to see (on YouTube and other sites) people using artificial means (glitter is SO eco UNfriendly) and then bragging up the wonders of homemade. Homemade can still be garbage 🙂

  • Sharon Heiser
    · Reply

    November 15, 2016 at 7:53 PM

    Hi, Can I use these colorants with Melt & pour making?

    Many thanks,

    Sharon Heiser

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 15, 2016 at 9:55 PM

      Yes you can. Add and mix well before pouring.

  • Karen
    · Reply

    November 22, 2016 at 10:25 PM

    Want to pre mix Titanium Oxide for soap making: Is there a special fluid or about to make this ahead of time? Lots of sites talk about making it up ahead of time no one says how much and what fluid. Help!!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 22, 2016 at 10:28 PM

      Some studies show titanium oxide to be carcinogenic. I do not use it.

  • LeeAnn Markle
    · Reply

    November 30, 2016 at 6:27 PM

    Just wondering if I could use these colorants for bath bombs. I think if I add it to the melted coconut oil I use that might just work. Your thoughts on this.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      December 1, 2016 at 10:05 AM

      You defintiely can. When making soap the colors are effected by the lye and heat, so these will actually be more true colors in bath bombs.?

    • Rukayya
      · Reply

      October 17, 2020 at 7:08 PM

      Hello, I saw you recommend adding tumeric to oil first because it fades. Can you please explain more on that. I recently made tumeric soap and in both times the colour is nonexistent after un molding. How do you infuse the tumeric powder in oil? And is it before or after trace?

      Thanks

      • Kelly
        · Reply

        Author
        October 19, 2020 at 8:44 AM

        Add it to one of your oils before you make the soap. If you do not warm the oil, give it a few days to sit, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t settle. You can also gently heat the oil and add the turmeric so that it speeds the process of coloring the oil. Let it them cool. This oil is going to be one of your main oils in your recipe, so it will be added when you normally add oils to the pot.

  • Andrea
    · Reply

    January 15, 2017 at 1:03 AM

    One way to make powder from your lavender or flowers is to dehydrate them in a dehydrator or oven. Then they can be put into a Ninja food processor (use the container to blend a shake drink in) to pulse them quickly into a powder. You can also pulse candy canes, dried orange peel, and much more with your Ninja processor.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 15, 2017 at 1:30 PM

      Great ideas Andrea. Thanks for sharing.

  • Mona
    · Reply

    April 2, 2017 at 9:23 AM

    Hi Kelly

    Thanks a million for your informative website and loads of info. My name is Mona. I am newbie to soap making. I only started in Jan. 2017. I have made two batches of liquid Castile soap. Every time I get a dark brown paste and when I dilute it, I still get dark brown liquid Castile soap. Is it because a stainless steel pot instead of a crock pot? Is it because the heat I use is not low enough? I used olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil and palm oil. It is because of the oils I use? Is it because I take away the lid every 30 minutes to stir the paste so the water in the paste evaporates? One more question how can I make the hand soap more sudsy?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      April 4, 2017 at 9:40 PM

      Hi, sorry it took me a few days to get back to you. It’s been a crazy week.
      It sounds like you are hot prcoessing. The darker color is not from the stainless steel pot, and removing the lid when hot processing usually just leads to dry chunks stirred into the soap, not a darker color. Are you using a white palm oil or red?
      It could be because you are overheating your oils. Are you using potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide in order to create a liquid soap, or just adding more water after saponification?
      To make a hand soap more sudsy you can you can add more castor oil. I’m not sure how much you are using. Make sure you put all of your ingredients through a lye calculator like on soapcalc.net.

  • Debra Collier
    · Reply

    June 7, 2017 at 1:51 PM

    Hello, Kelly.

    I thoroughly enjoyed reading your information, and appreciate very much you sharing your knowledge. I have been making soap for a while and my desire is to start my own business. There is soo much information to learn, especially about the business aspect of getting everything set up, and would like to know your suggestions of how to best get started (soaping software, best place to buy essential oils, etc.)

    Thank you for any advice that you can share.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      June 7, 2017 at 7:44 PM

      Hi Debra,
      That’s a huge question. Starting local is a great way to start getting your logo ready and finding out what people like. Try selling to friends, boutiques, and in local craft shows. Etsy is a great online starter, but there’s a lot of soap competition.

  • Brianne
    · Reply

    July 6, 2017 at 4:31 PM

    This list is very helpful, thank you! My son reacts to everything with rashes and bumps so we have started making our own soaps together. We also wanted to try making soaps to give to family and friends this year for Christmas gifts and were looking for ways to color them naturally. We saw alfalfa powder for sale as a colorant, and it grows everywhere on our farm so we dehydrated some ourselves to try it. Unfortunately, even though our soap started out nice and green, it has faded to a pale brown color while curing. So we are nervous about ordering expensive herbs and powders online and having them not work out. Is there a method for making sure the color doesn’t disappear?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 6, 2017 at 5:10 PM

      A lot of greens will do that. I’ve had the best luck with spirulina added to the lye water. Oil infusions (like with parsely or spirulina) tend to hold green longer as well, rather than just added at trace.

  • Lisa
    · Reply

    July 19, 2017 at 9:07 AM

    Thank you for your article and information. I’ve been making CP soap now for about 8 months and use all natural ingredients including my colorants and have some of the ones you’ve listed above. My struggle is getting bolder colors. I know all natural will give mostly muted colors and I’m okay with that, I guess I’m curious to know how you add yours. Do you use both the infused water with lye and the infused oil at trace? And how much do you usually use? I would really appreciate your feedback. My coloring is the missing piece right now to my soap journey, lol. Thank you.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 19, 2017 at 9:13 AM

      Hi Lisa,
      These suggestions are ingredients I add directly at trace without infusing in oils. These are quick simple ideas. I go into depth in my book, The Natural Soapmaking Book for Beginners (http://bit.ly/NaturalSoapMaking). I have charts for infusing oils and how much, what’s best to add in lye water, etc.
      For bolder colors I like to use clays and oil infusions. Annatto will give bright yellows, paprika infusion will give deep oranges, rose clay can give bright reds added directly at trace. Greens are tricky. Most will fade.

  • Amanda van Niekerk
    · Reply

    August 3, 2017 at 2:52 AM

    These look lovely! I’m wanting to add colour to epsom salts for a bathsalts mix, so you have given me some nice ideas. Any problem with staining? I know for instance that turmeric tends to stain fabric (bath towels). Has anyone noticed this?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      August 5, 2017 at 9:18 AM

      None of these stain when used in soaps, but bath salts may cause staining on white bath towels. They are just not incorporated and diluted as you would if making soap.

  • Elizabeth McCulloch
    · Reply

    August 5, 2017 at 8:16 PM

    It is so fun to experiment with natural ingredients with soap making. I love the anticipation of how the color will turn out. So far I have used turmeric and paprika. I have also used nutmeg for a layer line in my soap making. Great talk with other soap maker lovers. Betty

  • David
    · Reply

    August 14, 2017 at 6:56 PM

    Use rue (ruda), rosemary, peppermint, lavender..ect. We grow our own, dry the leaves and add 1/4 cup of powder to 3 lbs of soap. The rue is great! take care, Dave

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      August 14, 2017 at 7:35 PM

      Fabulous! Thank you Dave.

  • soap star
    · Reply

    October 13, 2017 at 3:58 AM

    Thanks for the article. Why do certain soaps discolor when left under the sun especially soap that is colored pink.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      October 13, 2017 at 7:00 PM

      Green is usually the color the people have the biggest problem with. Yes, herbal colors can fade over time, but most stay pretty strong. You can make an herbal oil infusion of color and sub that for some of the oil in your recipe. Sometimes oil infused colors last longer. Try clays. They don’t tend to fade either.

  • Mona
    · Reply

    November 7, 2017 at 11:22 PM

    Hi Kelly

    I have a question about liquid Castile soap, please.
    I watched a video online on how to make liquid Castile soap thicken by adding salt solution.
    When I do this to a certain extent, like 12 tbsp per liter, I get a thick liquid like sauce, but it doesn’t thicken further. It doesn’t become a paste like the video. It separates into a clear liquid and foam on top. Why does this happen?

    Another question, do I have to leave the Castile soap for 2 – 3 weeks to cure before I use it? Would it behave better if I do? Or shall I use it from the second day?

    Thanks a lot.

  • Patti
    · Reply

    November 15, 2017 at 8:35 PM

    hi there – I have this soap making book and have tried a few recipes and love them. Question, which soap is the most “pourable”? I have a silicone mold where I need to be able to pour the soap through a small hole. I tried melt and pour soap and hated it. Any help/advice you can give would be so appreciated. Thanks so much!! 🙂

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 15, 2017 at 8:41 PM

      Try one of the castile our Bastille recipes, or combine the lye water and oils at a cooler temperature than the 110 degrees. The higher olive oil amount creates a softer soap that takes longer to come to trace and the lower temp makes it slower to come to trace. Do one or the other.

  • sandra
    · Reply

    December 31, 2017 at 2:09 AM

    I wanted to start making my own soap but everything seems so complicated. Is it really that hard. I have come across so many recipes i don’t even n
    know where to start…….pls help!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 2, 2018 at 10:42 AM

      Think of it like learning to bake a cake for the first time. If you follow instructions carefully it comes together wonderfully. The more skilled you get, the extra fills that can be added. Start with: https://simplelifemom.com/2015/09/20/7-easy-steps-to-homemade-lye-soap-for-beginners/ Try my book as well which has troubleshooting, tutorials, and step by step instructions: http://bit.ly/NaturalSoapMaking

  • Liz
    · Reply

    January 11, 2018 at 3:59 PM

    Thank you for this great resource, definitely bookmarking this!

  • Ali
    · Reply

    January 17, 2018 at 6:46 AM

    Dear
    Thank you very much for all the information.
    I am making my own soap .. when I tried to use the blue color with the caustic soda it turns orange color.. can you help? how do I get blue color with caustic soda. Many Thanks
    Ali

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 17, 2018 at 9:54 AM

      The natural indigo that looks green as a powder needs extra processing before it will turn blue in soap (It’s a fermentation process). There are brands that have already done that for you. Did you add it to the water first, then add the lye? It sounds like the lye scorched it, because you should at least have a pretty green color. I don’t think there’s any way to save that.

  • Eden
    · Reply

    January 22, 2018 at 10:13 AM

    Hi Kelly,
    if I’m doing melt and pour soap, what type of colorings do you recommend? For sensitive skin. For essential oil, how many drops will be good for about 100g soap? (prefers slight fragrance – not too strong)

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 22, 2018 at 11:39 AM

      You can use the same colorings as you would for cold process. For sensitive skin I would just advise to stay away from cinnamon. I also have to avoid grasses like lemongrass because of my grass allergy, so keep that in mind.

      • Eden
        · Reply

        January 22, 2018 at 12:15 PM

        Thanks for the advice!

  • Tara
    · Reply

    January 28, 2018 at 10:51 AM

    Thank you so much for sharing these color alternatives. We don’t need to use toxic substances and it’s about time the majority actual know it!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 29, 2018 at 7:37 PM

      Thank you for saying that! I agree. There’s no reason why we can’t use natural, healthy ingredients.

  • Vicki
    · Reply

    March 13, 2018 at 7:54 PM

    I want to make Huckleberry soap, but my scent is yellow, so when I add color, the color changes. How do I get purple if my scent is yellow?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 16, 2018 at 7:54 PM

      What do you mean that the scent is yellow?

  • Abby
    · Reply

    April 8, 2018 at 8:32 AM

    Hey Kelly
    Abby here from all the way up in Canada, and I’m just wondering about mica? I know you said it was in the ‘don’t use’ category but I thought mica was just minerals? It would be greatly appreciated if your expertise can shed a little light on this matter for me, because I just ordered some and it’ll be here in a week?
    thanks, from MyHumbleAbode

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      April 8, 2018 at 8:58 AM

      Great question. I grew up in Africa where we could dig mica out of our back yard. It varies in transluscent and light pretty hues. These colors are natural. The powdered micas bought in stores today have been dyed with synthetic dyes to make them super bright, which I do not use on my body for health reasons. Synthetic dyes have been shown to be unhealthy over and over again.

  • Teresa
    · Reply

    April 20, 2018 at 10:31 PM

    It dont tell you what kind of colors use

  • Helen
    · Reply

    July 22, 2018 at 7:08 AM

    Hi Kelly, I’m keen to make some of your sensitive bars but would like to add some colour. I’m looking at spirulina as it is in your face bar and possibly alkanet root power (not together). Are they any other colours you’d recommend to brighten up a senstive bar without countering its sensitivity? Many thanks

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 22, 2018 at 8:16 AM

      Most herbs are fine for use in sensitive soaps. Avoid harsher ones like cinnamon and clove. The clays are great for sensitive skin as well. Check out this post for more ideas: https://simplelifemom.com/2017/08/06/color-soap-naturally-with-an-herbal-coloring-chart/

  • Amy
    · Reply

    August 29, 2018 at 11:01 PM

    I want to make a nice white soap that does not have lard, Palm or tallow in it. What blend of oils can I use to get white soap? Thank you!!!!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      September 2, 2018 at 4:51 PM

      The darker the oils, the darker the soap. Milks will also often darker soap. You can try babassu in place of coconut.

  • Orianna
    · Reply

    May 24, 2019 at 5:41 AM

    I’m just wondering about liquid soaps. I do not want to use chemical synthetic colours however I have a problem being that my liquid soap has a yellow tinge and I’ve been experimenting with food colours but it doesn’t quite work. Any ideas?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      May 25, 2019 at 7:32 PM

      You do not want the yellow tinge? Food coloring is toxic. I wouldn’t use it either. You can infuse different herbs for coloring. For a pink color, add a little rose clay.

  • Charlie Skipper
    · Reply

    June 13, 2019 at 3:45 AM

    Can you use food colouring?

    • Charlie Skipper
      · Reply

      June 13, 2019 at 3:46 AM

      Sorry i just realised the comment above, sorry!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      June 13, 2019 at 12:40 PM

      Food coloring is toxic. I wouldn’t use it in anything.

  • Charlie Skipper
    · Reply

    June 13, 2019 at 3:48 AM

    Also, i don’t have any of these fancy dyes, other than some of the spices, is there anything else i can use?

  • Wendy
    · Reply

    August 11, 2019 at 7:44 AM

    Hi Kelly: I have tried a few of your recipes now and find your book The Natural Soapmaking Book for Beginners a huge asset and wonderful reference book. My question is about arrowroot powder in your labelled picture above. I am looking for something to make my soap whiter or partially for swirling. Is arrowroot effective or do you have another suggestion please.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      August 11, 2019 at 9:16 AM

      I like to use kaolin clay. It makes good swirls and lightens soap. Just don’t use too much or it can give the soap a slimy feeling.
      Also use a lighter olive oil for a lighter color.

  • Pat
    · Reply

    November 6, 2019 at 8:57 PM

    I have a wonderful colour water from boiling onion skins and I’m wondering if instead of using water to dissolve the caustic soda I could use this onion skin ‘water’ and… would it give me any colour?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      November 9, 2019 at 9:52 AM

      I’ve never used onion skin water. Yes, you could use it in place of the water in a recipe. That being said, my guess is that it would turn brown. Onion skins are used as pH indicators and turn pink in acid and greenish in basic solutions, so there’s a possibility that there will be some greenish color left, but most plant matter turns brown in soap.

  • Pat
    · Reply

    November 12, 2019 at 9:56 PM

    Thanks Kelly I’ll give it a go in a small batch. Perhaps if I add a pinch or two of paprika using your method (at trace,) it might make the soap a reddish brown colour. I’ll let you know

  • Cherelle | The Inspired Prairie
    · Reply

    January 30, 2020 at 4:20 PM

    Hey Kelly,

    Thanks for the list of natural food dyes! This list would be great fr many uses, including dyeing Easter eggs coming up in a few months!

    -Cherelle

  • Mia Rice
    · Reply

    June 13, 2020 at 9:30 PM

    Thank you so much! I am a new soaper and bought alkanet root because of the pretty purple but didn’t realize it needed to be soaked in an oil reduction for 8 days or tempered in a double boiler for 4 hours to get that amazing color. Was checking your writing before I tried red madder. Glad to find out which pigments were good to soak in oil first like annato, paprika, burdock and comfrey leaf. Thanks so much! The idea of titanium dioxide doesn’t sound right in healthy soaps to me either. What do you think of zinc dioxide? Would you use it? I think I need your book.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      June 15, 2020 at 4:35 PM

      I’m not overjoyed with zinc oxide. It’s been shown not to go through the skin if it is non-nano, but how uniform is the process? I do use it in sunscreen out of necessity, but I wouldn’t use it in a soap just for coloring.

  • Winnie
    · Reply

    July 8, 2020 at 1:57 PM

    Hello, could these powders be used for perfume oil??

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 9, 2020 at 4:42 PM

      You could add them to an oil. They will color the oil, though some will change slightly. They will color the skin as well if a lot is used.

  • Moon
    · Reply

    August 15, 2020 at 9:33 PM

    I tried the spirulina as suggested here and it made my basement and soap smell awful. Even with the peppermint I put in the soap still has a hint of the smell.