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Shampoo Bar Recipe and Herbal Conditioners

Posted by Kelly Hair, Natural Beauty 29 comments
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If you’ve been looking for a good all purpose shampoo bar recipe, then I’ve got you covered.

I’ve actually put together multiple options so that you can easily tweak this recipe without any trouble. It is a cold process soap recipe. If you’ve never made cold process, then check out my book Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners, or search the tutorials on my Soap Making home page (I also have a new book coming out on Melt and Pour, Hand-milling, and Cold Process).

Natural Shampoo bar recipe and herbal conditioners for multiple hair types

Soap making is like baking a cake and icing it too. If you have done that before, then you can make soap.

The Conditioner options I have on this page are not for bars, though I’ll give you links to a few recipes. Conditioner bars really need some questionable ingredients to do well in bar form. You also need to have the right type of hair and use them properly. Too many people like to use them like they would a bar of soap on their skin, and then are upset that they don’t get great results.

Instead, I’m giving you some amazing herbal options that are spray and rinse conditioners. They are great on all hair types and much easier to use.

Let’s get right to it!

Natural Shampoo Bar Recipe

Oils and herbs make the shampoo bar. Most natural oils used in homemade soap bars are great in hair. Some just happen to be better for certain hair types. I’ll give you the recipe, then tell you how to modify it to fit your specific needs.

This recipe makes 3lbs of shampoo or twelve 4-ounce shampoo bars.

Superfat: 7%

Ingredients:

  • 8 ounces cocoa butter
  • 8 ounces coconut oil
  • 8 ounces castor oil
  • 5 ounces apricot kernel oil
  • 5 ounces avocado oil
  • 4.6 ounces lye
  • 10.8 ounces water
  • 1 ounce essential oil

Directions:

  1. Weigh and combine cocoa butter, coconut oil, castor oil, apricot kernel oil, and avocado oil in a large stainless steel pot. Melt over low heat, stir, and remove from heat. Cool to around 90 F.
  2. Weigh water in a plastic container and lye into a zip-top bag. Go outside wearing disposable gloves, goggles, and a charcoal mask (cloth masks do nothing) and pour the lye into the water and stir until it is dissolved (about 30 seconds). It will give off a gas for 1-2 minutes. Do not breathe the gas. The chemical reaction will cause the lye water to heat rapidly. Allow to cool until about 90 F.
  3. When oils and lye water are around 90 F, pour lye water into oils and blend with an immersion blender until it begins to thicken (trace).
  4. Add essential oils and blend.
  5. Pour into a lined mold, cover and insulate if necessary and let sit for 24 hours to set. After 24 hours, remove from mold and cut. Cure for 3-6 weeks in a cool, dry location until hard.

To Use: Use a shampoo bar by lathering in your hand or a scrunchy and rub through your hair. Rinse.

Options:

For Curly Hair: Add 1 Tablespoon of honey at trace (the same time you add the essential oils). Substitute 1/2 of the water with cow or goat milk.

Use essential oils of your choice. Try lavender, orange, rose, rosemary and peppermint, or eucalyptus and lemon.

For Oily Hair: Add 1 tablespoon nettle powder at trace.

You have a lot of options for essential oils. I suggest trying tea tree and grapefruit, rosemary or geranium.

For Thin or Limp Hair: Substitute jojoba for the apricot kernel oil. You don’t need to change the lye amount for that switch. Add 1 tablespoon of honey at trace.

Combine rosemary, cypress, clary sage, and lemon essential oils to increase circulation and revitalize scalp and hair.

Natural Shampoo Bar and Conditioner Recipes for multiple hair types.

Herbal Conditioning Recipes

As I mentioned above, using a conditioner bar means you have to pay attention to your hair’s needs, your hair type, and how much to use. Since most people are not used to being so particular about how they use a bar on their hair, I’m giving you some options that are spray and rinse that work wonderfully and are super easy to get great results!

If you’d like to check out the conditioner bar recipe, click here: Conditioner bar for all hair types.

I use a conditioner bar once every week or two and use a spray conditioner every time I wash without the conditioner bar.

It’s important to remember that natural shampoo bars are slightly basic. Applying something that is slightly acidic will balance the hair and scalp for smoother, closed hair follicles and healthy hair.

Herbal Conditioner #1

  • 4 ounces apple cider vinegar
  • 4 ounces water
  • 5 drops lavender essential oil

Add ingredients to a spray bottle and shake to mix. After washing, spray with conditioner and rinse.

Herbal Conditioner #2

  • 2 cups water
  • 1 tablespoon dried rosemary
  • 1 tablespoon chamomile
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

Heat water to a simmer and remove from heat. Add herbs. Cool, strain, add vinegar and pour all into a spray bottle. After washing, spray with conditioner and rinse.

Herbal Conditioner #3

  • 2 cup water
  • 6 dried rosehip buds
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 5 drops rose essential oil (10% dilution)

Heat water and rose hips for 15 minutes on low heat and remove from heat. Cool and add vinegar and essential oil.

If you have questions, mention them in the comments below and I’ll see if I can help.


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29 comments

About Kelly

Kelly is the author of number one best seller The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners and Easy Soap Making. She's also written multiple ebooks on herbal remedies and natural bath and body DIYs. Her journey toward better health has inspired her to make things in and around the home from scratch, start a homestead, and become more resourceful when it comes to health and home. She shares her recipes and DIYs here on Simple Life Mom and has a shop where she sells products for those who would rather buy than make (SimpleLifeMom.com/shop).

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29 comments

Leave your reply.
  • Lisa
    · Reply

    February 8, 2021 at 9:25 AM

    HI There! I have your book and have been making the honey and goat’s milk shampoo bar. I absolutely love it! My hair is really so nice since I have been using it. I printed out some of your other recipes to make for shampoo bars for different hair types. All of the recipes in your book are wonderful! I use your basic recipes and put my own little twist on each batch. I really appreciate all of your information, as I have learned a great deal, with your help! I have only been soaping since this past September and I already feel like a pro! Thanks again!!

  • Francesca
    · Reply

    February 10, 2021 at 9:08 AM

    Actually,
    What about hair that is oily then tangles really badly when I wash it. What do you suggest for a conditioner or de-tangler?
    Also what about color treated hair, What do you suggest for a conditioner or shampoo?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      February 16, 2021 at 5:51 PM

      Natural shampoo bars seem to do great with color treated hair. I haven’t tried it with acv though so I’m not sure if that will react with or strip the color. If you do use acv, make sure to dilute it by 50%.
      The other issues may have to do with the hardness of your water. Hard water makes it difficult to use natural products. You can get a filtering shower head. Diluted acv really is a great help for this as well. Only use if you’ve also used a natural shampoo bar so you’re creating a balance from the basic bar and acidic spray.

  • Yvonne
    · Reply

    February 15, 2021 at 4:08 PM

    Do you have a shampoo bar for colored hair?
    thank you
    Yvonne

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      February 16, 2021 at 5:36 PM

      A number of people, including myself, have used the various recipes I have for shampoo bars on colored hair and it doesn’t seem to stripped any color.

  • stella
    · Reply

    February 17, 2021 at 2:45 PM

    thank you for the detailed tutorial and extensive explanations. i’m so glad i found your website last year and always loved learning all the tricks and hints you’ve provided.

    last october i made your shampoo recipes from 2019 (https://simplelifemom.com/2019/08/04/hair-type-shampoo-bar-recipes/), the one that uses neem oil. it was for my mom who was complaining about thinning hair and having flat head hair. i’ve noticed i’m getting there myself. so i picked the recipe for oily hair, even though we have normal hair. it was working at first but now her hair is flat again.

    should i discard the 2019 recipe and make another one from the recipe above? How does this recipe above compare to the shampoo recipe you had from 2019? also is there anything i can add to the above recipe for hair growth?

    i really appreciate you helping us soapers! it’s quite exciting and fun. thank you so much!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      February 17, 2021 at 10:05 PM

      Sometimes the hardness of your water is to blame for flat or heavy hair. High mineral content tends to cling to your hair when you don’t use a diluted acv conditioner (make sure it is diluted 50% with water). That can vary as your water treatment varies throughout the year.
      Trying something new is good too so having a few different kind of bars available may be helpful. If you can source good palm oil, palm seems to give a lot of body to thinning hair.
      Hair growth has to do with a lot of factors, mainly internal like vitamin and mineral consumption. External breakage can often be addressed with oils and conditioning.

  • stella
    · Reply

    February 18, 2021 at 11:03 PM

    What happened to my questions. My posting was deleted. Did i offend anyone?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      February 18, 2021 at 11:46 PM

      It’s there. Right above my reply to you 🙂

      • Miss
        · Reply

        March 16, 2021 at 9:11 AM

        hello, i would like to make shampoo soap for all hair types.
        what exact recipe do you recommend?
        can you give me the ingredients in grams please? because I am French and I am struggling. thank you

        • Kelly
          · Reply

          Author
          March 22, 2021 at 10:36 PM

          You can find for different hair types here: https://simplelifemom.com/2019/08/04/hair-type-shampoo-bar-recipes/, or the recipe on this page will work very well. You can do an internet search for conversions.

  • Katiria Roman
    · Reply

    March 16, 2021 at 9:17 PM

    Hello, it will be my first time making soap and I choose to make the pet soap. It requires olive oil. Can I use any cooking olive oil to make? Please advise. Thank you

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      March 22, 2021 at 10:33 PM

      Yes you can.

  • Donna
    · Reply

    September 16, 2021 at 11:07 PM

    My daughter is allergic to apricots, is there an oil I can use to replace this? Thank you!!

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      September 18, 2021 at 12:28 PM

      You can use sweet almond oil if she’s ok with that. If not, let me know and I’ll run a few other oils through the lye calculator for you.

  • Lauretta Barker
    · Reply

    January 4, 2022 at 8:50 AM

    While your shampoo bar recipe does sound lovely, I would love to make one that doesn’t use all to more expensive oils/fats that may or may not be readily available. You know, sticking with the self sufficiently thing? Most of my cp soaps contain tallow or lard (as well as olive oil and castor oil). I would like to make a shampoo bar that uses them. I also have people in my family that are allergic to coconut, which is why I have been developing soaps without.
    My hair is kind of tricky. I have oily scalp, but curly, dry ends. Most commercial “one size fits all” shampoos don’t work for me.
    I have tried a couple of my cp soaps on my hair just to test them and see if they’d work in a pinch. But I have followed them with an ACV rinse. I will try one of yours to see if that makes a difference.

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 4, 2022 at 6:02 PM

      You can definitely use regular body bars on hair, depending on your hair type. Yours sounds like it’s a bit more picky though.
      I use babassu oil or palm kernel oil instead of coconut oil for those with allergies.
      I do recommend adding milk and honey for your hair type. Those add moisture and tend to help curly or thick hair a lot.
      And always dilute acv by 50% before using. You don’t want to swing the pH the other direction. body bars and shampoo bars are only slightly basic.

  • Katilyn
    · Reply

    April 12, 2022 at 9:47 PM

    I tried looking it up but can’t find the answer. Can I interchange Castile soap for lye?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      April 13, 2022 at 8:47 PM

      You would have castile soap and a bunch of oil. No, you have to use lye to turn the oil into soap through a chemical reaction.

  • Angela
    · Reply

    April 28, 2022 at 3:26 PM

    I mistakenly bought a bottle of avocado-coconut-safflower oil mixed. Is that okay to use in place of the avocado oil or do I need to wait til I can get back to the store for pure avocado oil?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      May 3, 2022 at 8:16 AM

      You can use it in a recipe like this.

  • Liesa
    · Reply

    May 3, 2022 at 11:03 AM

    Would I be able to do this recipe as a hot process soap?

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      May 4, 2022 at 4:08 PM

      Yes, any cold process recipe can be made with hot process.

  • Doreza
    · Reply

    July 7, 2025 at 4:50 PM

    Hi I would love to try this recipe
    Can I replace the apricot oil fir some other oil , which one

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      July 7, 2025 at 9:35 PM

      Sweet almond oil can replace apricot kernel oil

  • Kristen
    · Reply

    January 11, 2026 at 1:09 AM

    Can I substitute the cocoa butter with Kokum butter? Cocoa butter is hard to find where I live for some reason

    • Kelly
      · Reply

      Author
      January 11, 2026 at 10:13 AM

      Yes, you can. That switch won’t change the recipe.

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